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<TITLE>centrallock</TITLE><BODY TEXT=White BGCOLOR=Blue LINK= ALINK= VLINK=Yellow><P><FONT SIZE="+3" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B><I>CENTRAL DOOR
LOCKS ->93 900 9000</I></B></FONT><FONT SIZE="+3" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=Red><B>
<HR>
</B></FONT><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>NOTE: THE ECU HAS
AN OVERHEAT CIRCUIT BUILT INTO IT. IF YOU REPEATEDLY LOCK AND UNLOCK
THE DOORS, THE CIRCUIT KICKS OUT THE ECU UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS TIME TO
COOL DOWN. THIS IS NORMAL AND DESIGNED INTO THE SYSTEM FOR
PROTECTION. AFTER A COUPLE OF MINUTES, IT SHOULD WORK AGAIN BUT WILL
KICK OUT QUICKER IF YOU AGAIN USE IT A FEW TIMES. THIS CIRCUIT IS
ALSO PRONE TO FAILING, A SOLDER JOINT INSIDE THE ECU BREAKS. IF YOU
GO THROUGH THE TESTS BELOW AND THE ECU LOOKS LIKE IT IS THE CULPRIT,
POP IT OPEN AND CHECK FOR A BROKEN SOLDER JOINT. IF YOU FIND ONE,
REPAIRING IT MAY REPAIR THE ECU AND SAVE YOU SOME
BUCKS</B></FONT><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>.</B></FONT><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=Red><B>
<HR>
</B></FONT><A HREF=c900doorlocwir.htm><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B><I>Wiring</I></B></FONT></A><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>First check that the fuse
for the central locks is good, fuse 24 on 900 and fuse 16 on
9000s.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>The ECU (relay) is triggered
by a switch in the driver's door. It has three wires, green red and
black on a 9000 and differing colors on a 900. The easiest way to
check this on a 900 is to find the three pin connector in front of
the driver's door in the engine compartment with brown and white,
blue,and brown wires on one side and green and white, yellow and
black on the other. On a 9000, the wires run through a 22 pin
connector at the door. The easiest way to check them is at the
ECU.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>The ECU on a 900 is on the
passenger side on top of the floor ventilation duct, secured by a
bracket. Remove the rightmost screw holding the vent up, lower the
vent and pop off the bracket with the ECU. On a 9000, the ECU is a
bit harder to get to, held to a plate on the driver's side under the
dash by either a clip or screws from above. It is easiest to drop the
whole plate to get to this ECU on a 9000.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>On a 900, unplug the three
pin connector with the above wire colors and use the side going into
the car (not coming from the door) and jump the green/white wire to
the black wire. This should lock the doors. Jumping the yellow wire
to the black wire should unlock the doors. The black wire should be
grounded all the time. It runs to pin 3 of the ECU and then to ground
at the center console, at the hand brake lever. If the locks work
here, check the driver's door switch by using the other end of the
connector at the front of the door, at the hinge, in the engine
compartment as follows; when holding the key to the lock position,
check for continuity between the brown and white and the brown wire,
when holding it to unlock, check for continuity between the blue wire
and the brown wire. In the neutral position, there should be no
continuity between any of the pins.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>On a 9000, go to the ECU and
jump pin 2 (green wire) to ground pin 3 (black wire). The ground
point for this pin is at the left front speaker with a group of
grounds there. The doors should lock when pin 2 is grounded. Jump pin
1 (red wire) to pin 3, doors should unlock. If so, check the signal
from the driver's door switch by unplugging the ECU and checking for
continuity between the green wire (pin 2) and the black wire (pin 3)
while holding the key to lock. Check for continuity from the red wire
(pin 1) to the black wire (pin 3) when holding the key to unlock.
Make sure none of these pins have continuity when the key is in the
neutral position.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>If the driver's door inputs
check good and the doors don't lock and unlock, check that the ECU is
getting power in at its pin 4 (9000 blue wire, 900 green wire). Check
that it has a ground at its pin 3 (black wire). The ECU should send a
brief signal out its pin 7 (9000 brown and white wires) (900 violet
wires) and supply a ground at its pin 8 (9000 violet wires) (900
brown and white wires) These are reversed between cars and to avoid
confusion, just connect a test light across these terminals and work
the key in the drivers door. You should see the test light light
briefly when turning the key either to lock or unlock. If this
happens, then the motors in the doors are bad.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>If only one door doesn't
work and the others do, then the problem is in that door, either in
the wiring to it or in its motor. All the door motors receive a
signal from the same pins out of the ECU. Remove that door panel,
unplug the connector to the lock motor and connect your test light
across the harness side connector. Turn the key and watch for the
light to light. if it does, the motor is bad, If not, trace the
wiring for that door back to the ECU and repair the problem.
</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>If the fuse for the central
locks is blowing when locking and unlocking the doors, use a 5A
higher rated fuse. Usually, the responsible motor will not work, or
will be slow and you can pin point it. If not, unplug each motor one
at a time and test to see which one causes the fuse to blow. Replace
the motor that the fuse doesn't blow on when it is unplugged.
Remember you also may have a hatch or trunk motor and a gas door
motor.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>On hatch or trunk motors
that work, but don't lock or unlock the lock, the motor may be
kicking the linkage so hard that it kicks back to where it was. Saab
has a fix for these. Install an appropriate size screw with a washer
into the pivot for the linkage and tighten it just enough to put a
little tension on the linkage and keep the motor from kicking
back.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>It is not a good idea to
test the actual motors by removing them and connecting 12V and ground
directly to their pins. The motors only receive a very brief pulse
from the ECU to work and straight wiring voltage to them could burn
them up. </FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>If you get into the door
panels, be sure you tighten all the nuts and bolts there as well as
lubricate your window regulators and tracks, and door latches while
the panel is off. If the vapor barrier is in bad shape, or you trash
it, make a good barrier from 3 mm plastic (like painter's drop cloth
stuff) and attach it by using spray adhesive to the door. This helps
keep the door panel nice and the sound levels down.</FONT></P>
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