<HTML><!--DESCRIPTION: For use with the FileMaker Connection Assistant--><!--This file created 3/8/99 4:13 PM by Claris Home Page version 3.0--><HEAD>
<meta name="robots" content="index, follow">
<meta name="keywords" content="Saab, Repair, Best, Townsend, Ywan Mason, Tom Townsend, Townsend Imports, SaabMaster, big red, ignition cylinder, excessive resistance, real common, troublesome connectors, white connector, bigger terminals, pretty big, funny electrical problems, electrical connector, Automatic transmission, neutral safety, 0.3 V DC, excessive resistance.If">
<meta name="description" content="Best Saab Repair Intermittant Starter Problems 900 and 9000 Tools needed&12 V test light-To check for the signal to the starter from the switch&le">
<TITLE>modstartcircuit</TITLE><BODY TEXT=White BGCOLOR=Blue LINK= ALINK= VLINK=Yellow><CENTER><FONT SIZE="+3" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B><I>Intermittant
Starter Problems 900 and 9000</I></B></FONT><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B><I>
<HR>
</I></B></FONT></CENTER><P><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B><U>Tools
needed</U></B></FONT></P><UL><LI><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>A 12 V test light - </B><I>To check for the signal to the starter from the switch</I></FONT><LI><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>A length of wire to use for a jumper - </B><I>To place 12V on the starter solenoid</I></FONT><LI><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>A voltmeter -<I> </I></B><I>To test the battery cables for excessive resistance</I><B><I> <HR> </I></B></FONT></UL><P> <P><FONT FACE=Charcoal>Get your self a test light and a jumper
wire. Next time the starter won't turn over, unplug the yellow wire
going to the starter solenoid (small round thing attached to
starter). Have someone turn the key to start and hold it there. Use
the test light to make sure the wire is giving a signal to the
starter when the key is turned. If so, the starter may be bad or need
more amperage than the ignition switch is supplying. This is real
common with rebuilt starters. If the yellow wireis not getting power
when the key is turned, trace that back to the switch, On a 900,
there are three troublesome connectors on the left kickpanel that
bring the wiring in from the fuse box. Unplug them from under the
dash and make sure there are no pushed out or burnt pins. The white
connector there has bigger terminals off to one side that carry the
starter signal and if they loosen up, they can burn enough to cut the
amperage to the starter. If all that looks good, you may need to
replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch in the shifter
housing in the center console. That is a pretty big job for the first
timer. On a 9000, usually on 90 or earlier, the electrical part of
the ignition switch can also wear out. Symptoms it gives are
stiffness when the interior of the car is hot or intermittant no
starts and funny electrical problems. it is easily replaced by
removing the four screws in the bottom of the steering column covers
and then removing the two allen set screws holding it to the column.
It lives directly behind the ignition cylinder (the part the key goes
in). The electrical connector to it can be tight to remove. Note that
you have to have the notches in the new switch aligned with the
ignition cylinder to reinstall. A drop of LocTite on the set screws
will keep them from backing out.</FONT><P> <P><FONT FACE=Charcoal>Automatic transmission cars have a neutral
safety switch that can come out of adjustment. If the signal to the
starter is missing when the key is turned on an automatic, move the
shifter around Neutral or Park and see if the signal changes. If so,
you need to remove the covers on the center console and adjust the
switch so the signal is there when the car is in neutral or Park.
Usually, if it is missing in Park, pushing forward on the shifter
makes the switch make contact and sends the signal on to the
starter.</FONT><P> <P><FONT FACE=Charcoal>If the yellow wire is lighting the test
light every time the key is turned and the starter is not responding,
take the test light and touch it to the big red wire on the starter.
If it lights there, use the jumper wire from the big red wire on the
starter to the terminal where the yellow wire attaches. Make sure the
car is in neutral (or park if automatic) If the starter now works, it
is simply requiring more amperage to pull down its solenoid than the
ignition switch is supplying. You should first make sure that the
battery cables (both positive and negative) are tight and clean.
Trace them to their ends and clean and tighten any connections. If
you have a voltmeter, a voltage drop test will pin point weak cables.
Place one end of the voltmeter to each end of the cable and if the
voltmeter shows more than 0.3 V DC, you should replace the cable as
it has developed excessive resistance.If this doesn't eliminate the
problem, and the starter does hit every time you touch the red
battery wire to the terminal for the yellow wire at the starter, you
can add an inexpensive generic Ford solenoid to the circuit and solve
the problem for about $8 and 10 minutes time. Pep Boys or AutoZone or
similar chain parts stores will have a Ford solenoid for less than
$10. You will need some eyelet terminals to fit the terminals on the
solenoid, ample wire to run from the battery to the solenoid and then
to the starter and a female terminal end to fit the starter terminal
that the yellow wire goes on. An inline fuse for the wire coming
directly off the battery positive is not a bad idea
either.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal>To wire in the solenoid, first find a
suitable mounting point for the solenoid. The chosen place should
allow room for the wiring so the wiring will be in no danger of
grounding out and the solenoid should be able to be firmly and
securely mounted so it won't move and so the mounting points provide
the solenoid with a ground.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal>After the solenoid is securely mounted, run
the yellow wire that went to the starter to one of the smaller
terminals on the solenoid. Run a larger gauge wire directly from the
positive battery terminal to one of the larger terminals on the
solenoid. Finally run a wire from the remaining large terminal on the
solenoid to the terminal onto the starter where the yellow wire was
originally positioned.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal>We have done this to a number of cars and it
works well and saves a lot of $$ and worry. Some rebuilders, notably
Bosch are now including a label on their rebuilt units noting the
amperage requirements to energize the solenoid. The trend we are
noting is that the starters work ok when first installed, but after a
few months, require more amperage and start the intermittant no
start, especially when the car is or outside temperature is
hot.</FONT><P><A HREF=900startwire.htm><FONT FACE=Charcoal>900 Starter
Wiring Diagram</FONT></A><P><A HREF=9kstartwire.htm><FONT FACE=Charcoal>9000 Starter
Wiring Diagram</FONT></A><P><A HREF=modstartdiagram.htm><FONT FACE=Charcoal>Modified
Starter Wiring With Ford Solenoid</FONT></A><P> <P> <P></P>