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<H4><CENTER><FONT SIZE="+3" FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><B><I>CLUTCH
JOB SAAB 900 - 93 &amp; 94 CV</I></B></FONT></CENTER></H4>

<P><FONT SIZE="+2" FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><B><I>

<HR SIZE=11>

</I></B></FONT><FONT SIZE="+3" FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><B>T</B></FONT><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><B>his
document describes how to replace the clutch on the Saab 900. We
recommend to use the factory turbo clutch kit for both turbo and non
turbo applications on cars up to 1990. (90 and up have separate
clutch kits, aren't interchangeable turbo to non turbo and do not
include a slave cylinder or release bearing) The part 81346
and cost around $200.00 from the Saab dealer. You should replace the
pilot bearing located in the flywheel, the rear engine seal, and the
seal at the transmission end of the clutch. The pilot bearing and the
rear engine seal are not included with the kit and must be purchased
separately.</B></FONT></P>

<CENTER><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">

<HR SIZE=11>

</FONT><FONT SIZE="+2" FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><I>Getting
Started:</I></FONT></CENTER>

<P><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><B>Parts:
</B></FONT></P>

<UL>
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><B>8781346 The clutch
   kit</B></FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><B>9175902 The rear
   engine seal</B></FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><B>8346868 The pilot
   bearing</B></FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><B>8791618-10 The
   special tool</B></FONT></LI>
</UL>

<P><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">

<HR>

</FONT></P>

<UL>
   <LI><FONT SIZE="+2" FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><B>R</B></FONT><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">emove
   the hood. 12 mm bolt at the hinge, one on each side. Put a blanket
   or pad on the roof and transfer the hood to the roof. TIP<B>:
   </B>Put the air tubes, covers and other parts in the hood on top
   of the Saab as you take it apart.</FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Remove the negative
   battery terminal</FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Remove the intake air
   tubes that cover the black plastic protective clutch
   cover</FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Remove the protective
   cover: It has a 12 mm bolt at each side down low and two 10 mm
   bolts in the face near the center and right side. The side of the
   car is called as you set in the drivers seat. You may need to
   remove the brackets that hold the battery cable and remove the
   positive cable from the starter to get the cable out of the
   way.</FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">THE SPECIAL TOOL: Get a
   pair of channel lock pliers "The one in the tool kit in the trunk
   works well." Have a assistant push the clutch pedal all the way to
   the floor, bite down on the extended neck of the release bearing,
   release the clutch pedal and push down slowly as you insert the
   spacer ring "special tool " into the pressure plate. Now it is
   safe to remove the hydraulic supply line at the slave cylinder as
   well as the three 5 mm Allen screws that hold it on. <B>TIP:
   </B>If you don't have a assistant to help, get a pogo stick type
   tool, a 2*2 works...jam it between the seat back and the clutch
   pedal and adjust the seat back to tighten up the pedal to the
   floor. I used this method for 10 years.</FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Remove the spring clip
   at the end of the clutch shaft cover and extract the cover.
   <B>Tool Technique: </B>Use a 15/16 shallow socket and a long 8 mm*
   1.25 bolt. Put the socket end over the gear the clutch shaft
   resides in and stick the 8 mm bolt with large washer through the
   center of the socket to use as a clutch shaft puller. Note: you
   must remove the plastic end bushing to screw the tool 8 mm bolt
   into the clutch shaft.</FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Remove the clutch
   pressure plate 13 mm mounting bolts. Pry the pressure plate free
   of the flywheel as it is also retained by 3 short
   dowels.</FONT></LI>
</UL>

<CENTER><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><B><I>EXTRACTION:</I></B></FONT></CENTER>

<UL>
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Now push the slave
   cylinder forward into the pressure plate and cram it all together.
   Pry the works out through the left side. Tight fit huh? It helps
   at times to turn the flywheel relevant to the dowel
   pins.</FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">After you get the
   assembly out, <B>remove</B> the Special Tool. You need a press or
   make shift squeezer to collapse the pressure plate to get the tool
   out and insert the new tool into the new pressure plate.
   </FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Remove the 7 17 mm bolts
   that hold the flywheel on and pry it out. Note: The position of
   the flywheel dowel pin and position it at 11:00.</FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Remove the bearing in
   the center of the flywheel use a driver or a punch to knock the
   old pilot bearing out. Note: How the bearing is positioned
   relevant to the outside edge of the flywheel. Use the old part as
   a driver to hammer the new one into place. Don't install the new
   bearing till you get the flywheel back from the machine shop after
   it is resurfaced.</FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Remove the rear engine
   seal. Use a old screw driver or seal extractor to pry out old
   seal. Now a tricky part: Install special tool and push seal into
   place. Or you can hammer the seal into place and it is a job in
   such close quarters. If you mess up here the result is a bad oil
   leak and it will contaminate the clutch disc so be careful and
   make sure you work it in, little at a time, working around the
   outside edges. Use a razor blade to clean the end of the
   crankshaft off. Pry out the clutch shaft seal and pound in the new
   one supplied in the kit. That little seal Is in there tight and
   will take some doing to get out. Careful not to gouge the
   housing.</FONT><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""> </FONT></LI>
</UL>

<CENTER><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><B><I>INSERTION</I></B></FONT></CENTER>

<UL>
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Clean the threads on the
   bolts that hold the flywheel to the crankshaft with a wire wheel
   or brush and apply some sealer to each. We recommend Permatex #
   518 anaerobic sealer for any sealing purpose on engines and
   transmissions. Install the flywheel and the bolts that retain it.
   Get those bolts snugged down quick as the sealer starts setting up
   as soon as you screw them in and it could interfere with the
   torque values. Work quickly, use a torque wrench set to 45 ft lbs.
   Tighten in a cross pattern a little at a time.</FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Clean the surface of the
   flywheel and clutch parts with brake cleaner. Put the release
   bearing on the slave cylinder. Now put the clutch together "like a
   sandwich" Note: The bulk spring section of the clutch disc faces
   the pressure plate and the small spring hub faces the flywheel.
   <B>TIP</B>: Use a small tapered reamer and clean out the three
   small holes the locating dowel pins slide into to ease
   installation. Look at the old pressure plate to see locations of
   the holes. Insert the works. Lube the splines on the clutch shaft
   with a good quality grease "synthetic or moly" and insert it into
   the end of the transmission and through the clutch assembly. Use
   several small screw drivers to help lift and position the clutch
   disc to get the clutch shaft end into the pilot bearing. Once the
   shaft enters the pilot bearing force the shaft home with a good
   push or a tap from a brass hammer. Screw in the plastic end
   bushing into the clutch shaft and install its cover. A slight
   amount of silicone sealer on the rubber ring on the cover helps to
   ensure against oil seepage. Now install the bolts that hold the
   pressure plate and tighten to 18 - 20 ft lbs. It is a good idea to
   put a dab of blue LocTite to the threads of each bolt.</FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Install the three 5 mm
   Allen bolts that hold the slave cylinder on and use a slight
   amount of anaerobic sealer on these also. It will help to use a
   very small pair of channel locks to turn the Allens in most the
   way and finish off with a Allen wrench that is hard to position
   into the bolts.</FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Screw the hydraulic hose
   into the slave cylinder "bottom hole" and put the bleeder nipple
   in the top hole. BLEED THE SYSTEM: Bleeding is best achieved by
   applying a positive pressure where you put the brake fluid in
   while slightly opening the bleeder nipple. <B>TIP</B>: LoL... I
   have in cases of emergency "on the road and the pedal fell to the
   floor".... Take a clean rag and clean off the area of the filler
   cap on top the master cyl. Take your mouth and apply a positive
   pressure until a stream of brake fluid came out of the bleeder
   valve ....lock it down. wait 5 to 10 minutes and you may be ok. It
   is important to get all the air out of the system. Now push the
   clutch pedal all the way down by what ever means you used
   previously and EXTRACT THE SPECIAL TOOL. Test you clutch pedal for
   compression and height. Most clutch pedals by the time a Saab
   needs a clutch are worn at the pivot point of the pedal and clutch
   master fork causing a low pedal and not complete clutch
   disengagement. <B>TIP:</B> The Clovis pin that slides through the
   pedal and fork use a 5/16 pin. Drill out to 3/8 and use a new 1-
   1/8 long * 3/8 Clovis pin. That pedal will come right up with no
   slop if done properly. In more severe cases it may be necessary to
   weld it up and redrill.</FONT></LI>
   
   <LI><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR="">Install the covers, air
   tubes and hood back on and you are ready for the road.</FONT>
   
   <P><A HREF="trans_docs.html"><FONT FACE="Charcoal" COLOR=""><B><I>Back
   To Transmission Index</I></B></FONT></A></P></LI>
</UL>
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