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<TITLE>baseboostadj</TITLE><BODY TEXT=White BGCOLOR=Blue LINK= ALINK= VLINK=Yellow><P><FONT SIZE="+2" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B><I>ADJUSTING
BASE BOOST</I></B></FONT><FONT SIZE="+2" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=Red><B><I>
<HR>
</I></B></FONT><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>To check base
boost, drive the car until it reaches operating temperature (fans
cycle twice). Use as high octane gas as you will usually run. Don't
put in 103 octane just for the setting. Running lower than 91 won't
be good either. Disconnect the APC solenoid electrical connection.
Attach the pressure gauge and route it inside the car where you or an
assistant can read it while you drive. Connect it to a manifold
vacuum source. I use tees so that I can reconnect all the lines and
see the engine as the APC sees it.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>Go for a drive, preferably
so you can get as much boost as possible for as long as possible. On
a manual, this is usually safest in third gear at about 2000 rpm
starting point. A hill helps hold the load longer(so you don't rev up
too quick to read the gauge). Hold the gas to the floor until you hit
about 4500 rpm. Record the highest reading on the gauge. On an auto,
try to push the car as hard as you can above 2750 rpm without hitting
the kick down.</FONT><P><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B><I>NON APC
TURBOS</I></B></FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>On non APC turbos, the
adjustment you do will set the max boost. You have no APC solenoid to
unplug, just attach the gauge and drive.</B></FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>On </FONT><A HREF=7880turadj.htm><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>78-80
Turbos</B></FONT></A><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>,</B></FONT><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>
you have to disassemble the diaphragm housing and turn the nut on top
of the spring seat. One half turn in increases the boost by about 1
psi. The spec is 7-8 psi.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>On 81-82 1/2 Adjust boost by
turning the</FONT><A HREF=wasterod.htm><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>
wastegate rod</B></FONT></A><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>.
Shortening the rod increases boost. The spec is 8-9 psi. One turn of
the rod changes the boost by about .6 psi Make sure you loosen the
rod lockout, and then remove the rod from the turbo arm to turn it.
Turning the threaded part of the rod will turn the diaphragm and can
tear it, rendering it useless. Full boost with no control will
result, the overboost switch kicking in very early with
acceleration.</FONT><P><FONT SIZE=-1 FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White> </FONT><P><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B><I>82 1/2->
APC TURBOS</I></B></FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>Since different year models
have different part number ECUs, they are designed to handle
different levels of boost. This is a compilation of the specs. The
specs given are the high end. See the above note on adjusting the
</FONT><A HREF=wasterod.htm><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>wastegate
rod</B></FONT><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>.</FONT></A><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>
This makes 9000s a bit of a challenge to adjust without getting
burnt. If you get the clips off, its not too bad.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>82 1/2 -> 84 4.85
psi</B></FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>85 -> except SPG 5.5
psi</B></FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>SPG except 90 5.9
psi</B></FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>90 SPG 6.3
psi</B></FONT><P><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B><I>DI/APC 6.0
psi</I></B></FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>NOTE: adjusting the base
boost on </FONT><A HREF=diapccomlocpic.htm><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>DI/APC</B></FONT><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>
</FONT></A><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>cars requires max
boost recalibration. Set base boost as outlined above by unplugging
the solenoid and driving with a gauge attached. Boost is adjusted by
the wastegate rod. Then the system must be readapted for max boost.
With the APC solenoid reconnected, jump pins 1 and 2 of the throttle
switch together and drive as if testing base boost. This may take
several attempts before the ECU resets the max boost it allows. The
car will die at idle with the pins jumped, so you have to work the
gas to keep it running. Pick your recalibrating route so you can undo
the jumper after it takes. You will see it go well into the red and
then come back. When it readapts, the distance into the red will not
exceed the dotted yellow lines by very much at all. Most of the time,
this works fine, but I caution that sometimes, ISAT is required to
clear the ECU and get it to readapt. This is rare, but does
occur.</FONT><P><FONT SIZE="+1" FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B><I>TRIONIC 6.0
psi</I></B></FONT><P><A HREF=tricomloc.htm><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>Trionic</B></FONT></A><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=><B>
</B></FONT><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>requires a test
drive to recalibrate max boost as setting base boost except with the
Boost Solenoid connected. It does not require the jumper
wire.</FONT><P><FONT FACE=Charcoal COLOR=White>TCS cars require ISAT
commands to recalibrate. I would not attempt resetting them without
ISAT.</FONT></P>
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